Durian stories

The Good Life with Eli F.J. Tajanlangit

Sadly for us, agricultural data in our country is, at best, spotty, so that it is difficult to really make claims, much less predict harvests and production patterns.

But to many connoisseurs and foodies, the Negros durian is one of the best, if not the best, in this country, comparable to the ones produced in other parts of Asia -thick, full, succulent, their seeds small.

This could be, said one horticulturist, because of the soil in the foothills of Mt. Kanlaon, which must carry minerals that contribute to making the durian produced there taste the way they do. The operating phrase here is “could be” because we can never be sure sans empirical data.

Whatever it is that makes our durian great and how to keep it that way, I hope we will eventually know. As it is, though, we can well enjoy its abundance hereabouts and availability at this time of the year.

Over the recent years, given its availability here, durian has inspired not just stories, but in fact recipes, and new ways of using it in the kitchen. And so, aside from eating it simply fresh, which I think is still the best way, there are hosts of other ways to serve it. There’s durian cake – the goodness of the fruit done like ice cream and laid out in a pie crust. As pastry, there also is durian pie, smaller and stuffed with the candied fruit, and even durian rolls, buns filled with the preserved fruit. There is durian pastilles, the fruit’s flesh cooked in milk and sugar, and rolled like small fingers – easy to eat, nice-tasting, and highly addicting; watch out, you wouldn’t know how many you’re capable of popping into your mouth.

Good Friend C does durian shake the pure, simple way that is utterly gorgeous, except that it may not be all that healthy – again, there is no empirical data here – despite the inimitable taste experience it gives. For this, he blends chilled durian flesh at the rate of two pieces to a glass, no ice or milk added, just the pure flavor of durian the way nature intended it to be, in thick liquid form. You won’t like milk shake after this; I take this as slowly as I can, like it was a sin I cannot avoid committing.

The same manner, but I guess one that’s not as concentrated, is done for durian coffee. The same thick liquid, preferably no longer cold or chilled, is used as creamer for coffee instead of the usual non-dairy or fresh milk that we do.

The Thais, as usual, are leading in finding new and exciting ways with this fruit. They have been doing durian rocks, seedless meat of the fruit air-dried, and they are a one-of-a-kind experience. It is a wonder, though, why this interesting durian variant isn’t available in too many outlets in Bangkok, I usually find it only at the grocery department of Isetann.

Bangkok has also perfected the durian chips, thin, crispy slices of the fruit that have been kissed with salt. I don’t know if this was fried – they don’t have the tell-tale oily residue – or baked, but what arrests you here is the thoroughly different character the fruit assumes as chips: they become nutty and nice. The local version is as interesting and flavorful. I vaguely remember somebody telling me this is done with durian that has not yet fully ripened.

All of these are nice and good, but durian freaks like myself always go back to the fresh when eating this fruit. In fact, over time, we develop our own particular and sometimes peculiar ways of eating it. Me, I like the ones that are just about to ripen, the ones that have a slight crunch to them at first bite which really is a counterpoint to the soft, glorious creamy meat inside.

Now, that is one choice I don’t need empirical data to make.*

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