Going up to Baguio

The Good Life with Eli F.J. Tajanlangit

The plan was for us to hit the summer capital of the Philippines by daybreak, hopefully, to see it in a literally different light and angle, when the first rays of the sun melt away the fog. By the time we hit Sison, Pangasinan, however, some blue tint started outlining the distant mountains and the long road appeared before us, as daylight began its slow, sure and subtle ascent.

We had left sweltering Manila , chafing under temperatures above 35 degrees Celsius around 2:30 a.m., and had kept on in the dark using little else but our headlights and the occasional stretches of highway lampposts until Sison, when the day started to come.

It was full light when we reached La Union, and the weekend wave of excursionists to Baguio started appearing on the road. But it wasn't that bad; the drive was hampered only on the last stretch to the city by big trucks that had to slowly wind their way through the curves.

We got to a Baguio that was fully awake and already going. Downtown traffic was starting to coagulate, and Burnham Park was getting filled up.

Despite historic highs in recorded temperature the day before, Friday, April 20, the city was now cool. The sun was up, yes, but the air was cool, a perfect day really, to go out and take in the world, maybe walk along tree-lined paths and enjoy the flowers that are as common as ours, but here properly hued in their reddest reds, goldest golds and bluest blues.

At about 5,000 feet above sea level, you can say that the place is kissed by the heavens, the plants and trees growing at their best. And this, of course, shows in its cuisine. At the old RoseBowl, yes, it is still here but is now at its new address atop a hill overlooking high-rise residences, the Chinese menu is built around the blessings of abundance of veggies. Its Hototay Soup – translated according to the menu as ‘Good to the Bottom' – is devoid of artificial flavors, not even by the magical powers of sautéing. Only the natural flavors of vegetables make the soup, with bits and pieces of meat and freshly-cracked eggs to put them together. But it is a celebration of the profusion of fresh vegetables of the region. Another iconic dish here is the Patatim, served to you all covered in limp but slightly crunchy blanched watercress.

For the summer, among the season's blessings are passion fruits, my secret passion, strawberries, although they are available almost always, and the recently-developed seedless oranges that are produced in Sagada. These oranges – huge, juicy and sweet – are bound to give the imported ones a run for their money.

Of course, one does not go to Baguio without passing by its public markets for the mountain crafts and pickings, such as those weaves and jams.

But really, as the summer city of the country, Baguio holds plenty of lessons the rest of the country can learn from if we hope to make a run for tourism. The influx of people has strained this city, it has almost lost its charms: the colonial houses are deteriorating, most of the American-era architecture have been desecrated, the downtown streets have narrowed because of traffic management problems, the pine trees are thinning and yes, it is already getting "freak" temperatures in the 30s like last Friday.

It still holds its charm and beauty but its face is changing and its future as tourism draw is as foggy as its mornings. Already, other places in the country are luring the tourists more aggressively. I am a big believer in Pinoy ingenuity and inventiveness, and I supposed Baguio will reinvent itself. It's just that for now, we don't know what and how that will be.*

For feedback, go to www.lifestylesbacolod,com, check Bacolod Lifestyles on Facebook and follow @bacolodtweets on Twitter

back to top